It was almost as an aside while walking round the Hippodrome, I 'popped in' and was blown away. First you are hit by the walls and caverns of old hipposdrome buildings, then a journey through the rise of islamic military prowess and into Empires resulting in Ottomans. Then downstairs agin there is a charming Ethnological section plus the collection of sacred art includig holy Islamic relics and texts. All in a new and modern museum. Everywhere else was packed and this was almost empty as I do not think anyone much knows about it. so perfect for a couple of hours. Only thing, do not use the cafe. A small bottle of water was 14 Lira - compared to nebtween 3.5 and 5 anywhere else!